The Basics
The foundational words you'll hear thrown around on day one.
- Amortization
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Bank Speak: The schedule of paying off a debt over time through regular installments.
Plain English: The math formula that decides how much of your monthly payment goes to interest (the bank's profit) versus principal (your actual loan amount). In the early years, you pay mostly interest. - APR (Annual Percentage Rate)
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Bank Speak: The true cost of borrowing money, including the interest rate and all lender fees, expressed as a yearly rate.
Plain English: If the interest rate is the sticker price of the loan, the APR is the out-the-door cost including fees. It's the best number to use when comparing two different lenders. - Escrow
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Bank Speak: A neutral third-party holding account for funds and documents.
Plain English: A financial "holding pen." It holds your earnest money before you close, and after you close, the lender uses an escrow account to hold a portion of your monthly payment to pay your taxes and insurance for you. - Interest Rate
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Bank Speak: The proportion of a loan that is charged as interest to the borrower.
Plain English: The ongoing fee the bank charges you to borrow their money. It does not include upfront lender fees (that's the APR). - PITI (Principal, Interest, Taxes, Insurance)
- Plain English: The four parts that make up your total monthly mortgage payment. When a lender runs your qualification math, they use the full PITI, not just the loan payment.
- Principal
- Plain English: The actual amount of money you borrowed. When you make a payment toward "principal," you are shrinking the true size of your debt, not just paying the bank's interest fee.
- Term
- Plain English: How long you have to pay the loan back (usually 15 or 30 years). A shorter term means higher monthly payments but vastly less interest paid over time.
- Title
- Plain English: The legal concept of ownership. When you are "on title," you legally own the home. The title company ensures nobody else secretly owns it before you buy it.
The Loan Types
Not all mortgages are built the same. Here's what the acronyms actually mean.
- Bridge Loan
- Plain English: A short-term loan that lets you tap the equity in your current house to use as a down payment on your next house before you sell. This is the secret weapon for buying before you sell.
- Conventional Loan
- Plain English: The standard mortgage. It isn't backed by the government. It generally requires better credit than an FHA loan but can be cheaper over time because mortgage insurance drops off once you have 20% equity. Run the Conventional math here.
- FHA Loan
- Plain English: A government-backed loan designed to help buyers with lower credit scores or smaller down payments (as low as 3.5%). The catch? You pay a mandatory mortgage insurance premium (MIP) usually for the life of the loan. Run the FHA math here.
- HELOC (Home Equity Line of Credit)
- Plain English: A credit card attached to your house. You get a line of credit based on your home's equity, and you only pay interest on what you actually borrow. Often used by buyers accessing equity for a down payment.
- Jumbo Loan
- Plain English: A loan for an amount larger than the standard limits set by the government (Fannie Mae/Freddie Mac). They require stricter credit, heavier cash reserves, and usually larger down payments.
- Reverse Mortgage
- Plain English: A loan for homeowners 62+ that converts home equity into cash (or a line of credit). Instead of you paying the bank monthly, the bank pays you, and the loan balance grows over time. Often discussed in retirement downsizing scenarios.
- USDA & VA Loans
- Plain English: Specialized zero-down loans. USDA is for rural properties (yes, parts of Southern Utah qualify). VA is exclusively for military veterans and active duty. Check out the Zero Down Calculator.
- Bank Statement Loan
- Plain English: A loan tailored for self-employed buyers where the lender looks at 12 to 24 months of bank deposits to calculate income, rather than relying on tax returns (which usually show heavy write-offs).
Qualification & Math
How the bank views your financial life before they write the check.
- Appreciation
- Plain English: How much your home's value grows over time. Southern Utah has historically seen strong appreciation, which builds your equity.
- Credit Score vs. Mortgage Score
- Plain English: That free score on your credit card app? That's usually a consumer model (VantageScore). Mortgage lenders use specialized FICO models (usually FICO 2, 4, and 5) that are strictly focused on how you handle debt. Your mortgage score is almost always slightly different than your app score.
- DTI (Debt-to-Income Ratio)
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Bank Speak: Your total monthly debt obligations divided by your gross monthly income.
Plain English: The most important math equation in lending. If you make $10,000 a month before taxes, and your car loan, student loans, and new mortgage payment total $4,000... your DTI is 40%. Lenders cap this strictly. - LTV (Loan-to-Value Ratio)
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Bank Speak: The ratio of the loan amount to the appraised value of the property.
Plain English: If you buy a $500,000 house and put down $100,000 (20%), your loan is $400,000. Your LTV is 80%. High LTV equals higher risk for the bank, which usually means paying mortgage insurance. - Pre-Approval vs. Pre-Qualification
- Plain English: Pre-qualification is the lender saying, "Based on what you told me, you look good." Pre-approval is the lender saying, "I've checked your W2s, pulled your credit, and verified your assets. You are fully greenlit to shop." Never shop on just a pre-qualification.
- Reserves
- Plain English: The liquid cash you have left in the bank after you've paid your down payment and closing costs. Lenders want to see you have an emergency fund (usually measured in "months of mortgage payments").
Closing Costs & Fees
What exactly are you paying for when you wire funds on closing day?
- Cash to Close
- Plain English: The exact dollar amount you have to wire to the title company on closing day. It is your Down Payment + Closing Costs - Earnest Money - Seller Credits. See how it works in the Buy Before You Sell Calculator.
- Closing Costs
- Plain English: The collective group of fees to do the transaction. It includes lender fees, title insurance, appraisal, county recording taxes, and pre-paying your property taxes. Generally expect it to be 2% to 4% of the loan amount.
- Discount Points (Buying Down the Rate)
- Plain English: Paying the bank upfront cash at closing to lower your permanent interest rate. One point equals 1% of your loan amount. It's only worth doing if you plan to stay in the home long enough to recoup the upfront cost via monthly savings.
- Earnest Money
- Plain English: A "good faith" deposit you make when a seller accepts your offer. It proves you are serious. If you close, the money goes toward your down payment. If you walk away without a legal reason, the seller keeps it.
- Net Proceeds
- Plain English: The actual cash you walk away with when selling a house, after paying off your current mortgage, agent commissions, and title fees. Check the Downsize Calculator to see yours.
- Title Insurance
- Plain English: A one-time fee paid at closing that protects you (and the lender) just in case someone comes out of the woodwork years later claiming they legally own your house because of a forged document in 1994. Essential protection.
Clauses, Rules & Risks
The fine print terms that dictate who has the power in the transaction.
- Contingency
- Plain English: A legal "escape hatch" in your contract. A financing contingency says "I buy this only if my loan is approved." A sale contingency says "I buy this only if my current house sells first." (As a Dual-Licensed Coordinator, I work to remove these so your offers are stronger).
- PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance)
- Plain English: A monthly fee you pay if you put down less than 20% on a conventional loan. It does absolutely nothing for you. It protects the lender if you default. It automatically falls off once you hit 20% equity.
- MIP (Mortgage Insurance Premium)
- Plain English: The FHA version of PMI. Unlike Conventional PMI, FHA MIP generally stays on the loan for its entire life, unless you refinance out of it later.
- Rate Lock
- Plain English: A guarantee from the lender that your interest rate won't change before closing, even if the market panics. Usually lasts 30 to 60 days. New construction buyers often need extended 9-month rate locks.
- Builder Incentive
- Plain English: When a new construction builder offers to pay your closing costs, but only if you use their preferred lender. Sometimes it's a great deal. Often, the preferred lender just inflates your interest rate to cover the "free" money.
The Process
The milestones you hit from contract to keys.
- Appraisal
- Plain English: The bank hiring a neutral third-party expert to verify the home is actually worth what you agreed to pay for it. The bank won't lend you $500k on a house that's only worth $400k.
- Underwriting
- Plain English: The behind-the-scenes part of the bank where human analysts review your tax returns, bank statements, and the appraisal to make the final decision: "Yes, we will give them the money."
- Clear to Close (CTC)
- Plain English: The three best words in real estate. It means the underwriter has reviewed everything, has no more questions, and has authorized the title company to draft the final paperwork for you to sign.
- CD (Closing Disclosure)
- Plain English: A 5-page document you must legally receive exactly 3 days before closing. It outlines the final loan terms, your exact monthly payment, and the penny-perfect Cash to Close amount.
- Funding & Recording
- Plain English: Signing papers doesn't get you the keys. Funding is when the bank wires the money. Recording is when the county officially stamps your name into the public record as the owner. Then you get the keys.
- Dual-Licensed Coordinator
- Plain English: Me. Someone licensed to act as both your Realtor and your Mortgage Lender simultaneously, removing the communication gaps and aligning both timelines perfectly. Read why this matters.
Stop translating. Start moving.
You don't need to be a mortgage expert to buy or sell a home. You just need to hire one who communicates clearly. Let's map out your move.